Symptoms of Cat Rabies - Protect Your Family From This Deadly Disease

By Tim Bock

Rabies is one of the most common diseases in cats. Not only is it easily spread, but can be deadly as well. By learning the symptoms and catching it early, you'll make sure to keep your family safe.

How are rabies transmitted

This disease is passed when an infected animal bites a non-infected one. It's transferred through saliva. The virus only lives for about 24 hours outside of the body. After an animal is infected, it spreads through the verves system to the brain. The incubation time is between 2-6 weeks. After that it moves to the salivary glands where it can be spread by biting.

Stages of rabies

There are 3 major stages of rabies. It's important to understand these symptoms so you can take measures to protect yourself. They are as follows:

Prodromal

This is the first stage. The symptoms of this stage include the following:

" Anxiety


" Solitude


" Nervousness


" Fever

Your cat may display erratic behavior that will generally last for 2 days or so.

Paralytic (Dumb)

Within 2-4 days cats will begin to salivate. This occurs because they are unable to swallow. Because the diaphragm and face muscles become paralyzed deep breathing will occur. Cat's jaws will also drop as a result of them trying to breath.

Furious

Now they will start to roam and may become vicious. This will lead to becoming disorientated. Eventually they may have a seizure which could lead to death.

Many times cat owners will not be aware that the animal has been affected. Keep a close eye on your cat. By recognizing the symptoms of rabies you will not only be able to protect your family but other pets as well.

Don't let cat rabies harm the people you love. Learn important tips by reading: Health Care for Your Cat as soon as possible. This is an excellent article that will give you more information the best way for taking care of your cat. http://www.easycatcaretips.com is dedicated to helping people take care of their cats.

Spray & Urine Odor Removal - Using Common Household Product

By O'Della Wilson

As a cat lover and owner of multiple male cats, spray and urine odor was a constant concern. When you have more than one male cat [I have three] you will have problems with spraying. While neutering male cats can sometimes prevent or cut down the amount of spraying by some, others will continue to spray. I can attest to that. I went to the extent of having my male cats neutered in an attempt to cure the odor problems. This resulted in a large veterinarian bill and horrible guilt on my part as my male cats did somersaults in an attempt to find there missing jewels.

Spraying is a means of marking territory. It is a male cat's way of letting other cats [and even humans] know they are the dominate creature within the household and that marked territory is owned by them. I can't begin to tell you how much money I spent on expensive products claiming to be my cure all to removing these almost impossible odors from my fabrics and furniture. Some of these products actually seemed to increase the amount of spraying my males cats were doing.

For a while I was caught in a vicious circle of buying one product after another, hoping for the solution and saving me the expensive of replacing bedding, curtains, and even furniture. Yes, anyone with a male cat will tell you - cat spray is strong, pungent, offensive and next to impossible to get rid of once it is in any fabric.

Well, I can tell you, it is not impossible and the solution might be as close as your kitchen. Even when you don't find that little darling's squirts of spray in a timely manner.

This simple household product is white vinegar. It is effective on many other offensive odors in your home, too. I use it as an additive to my regular laundry detergent to remove any and all odors; and to remove food stains too. It's great for cleaning floors, windows, counter tops and appliances.

For the items you can toss in the washing machine, add 1/2 cup white vinegar along with your normal laundry detergent and you won't even detect a hint of the vinegar. Do not mix with oxi-cleaning agents. If you prefer to use oxi-cleaners, wash with oxi-cleaner after the initial washing with vinegar, then re-wash with the oxi-cleaner to avoid damage to fabrics.

For cleaning fabric furniture and the foam cushions, mix a small bowl of two parts water and one part white vinegar. Then use a cotton cloth free of lint, dip it in the bowl and place over sprayed area. Allow to soak into fabric by applying pressure. Rinse and wring cloth, then repeat the process until you can no longer smell traces of urine. For a fresher aroma once spray has been removed, lightly spray area with fabreze fabric spray.

For all other cleaning jobs, add 3 ounces of vinegar per gallon of water used. To avoid the aroma of vinegar lingering in your house, add 2 or 3 cap fulls of vanilla extract or liquid potpourri to the solution.

This article written and provided by O'Della Wilson AKA Alhavakia

Copyright © 2008 All Rights Reserved

This article written and provided by: O'Della Wilson AKA Alhavakia, published author and freelance writer. http://www.alhavakia.com http://odellawilson.wordpress.com

Cat Problems - How to Train a Cat With Problems

By Katherin Towers

Is your little tiger driving you up the wall with one of the following cat problems?

Biting And Scratching You

Cats naturally have a lot of energy. If you keep kitty indoors, he may not be getting enough stimulation and may be overly enthusiastic when playing with you. It is best if you can schedule some regular playtimes with your cat to bleed off some of this excess energy. Often, you will find that he will stop biting and scratching you too hard all on his own.

You probably don't want to bleed while waiting for kitty to calm down. Instead of rough-housing with him, play with him using some kitty toys instead. Try a squeeking rubber mouse, or a ball. You can also dangle something on a toy fishing pole for him to chase.

Don't punish your cat if he plays too rough. Just immediately stop playing with him and don't pay any more attention to him until he calms down. If he chases after you, you may need to confine him in a room on his own.

Fighting With Another Cat

What looks like fighting to you may be just playing to your cats! The fine line between playing and fighting is this: are they hurting each other?

Very often, the fighting is started by one cat. If you observe carefully, you will find that one of your cats frequently tries to ambush the other cat. A simple way to stop this problem is to hang a bell on the collar of this cat. This makes it harder for him to ambush the other cat, and will help to reduce the fights.

One more thing you can do is to trim the nails of the more aggressive cat. You can ask your vet to show you how to do this. With shorter nails, he won't be able to hurt the other cat as much.

Scratching Your Furniture

Unfortunately, this problem behavior is not possible to stop. What you can do is redirect kitty's attention to something else more acceptable to scratch, like a scratching post. You will need to experiment to discover which type of scratching posts your cat likes best. At the same time, you need to make it unpleasant for kitty to scratch your furniture. One way is to apply a kind of sticky pad to the surfaces which he likes to scratch. You can buy this sticky pad from your local pet shop. Keep scratching posts near all the surfaces which kitty likes to scratch, and he will quickly shift his attentions to these posts.

Spraying And Marking Territory

This is sometimes the toughest behavior to deal with, because there can be many reasons for cat spraying. The first step is to make sure all your cats are spayed or neutered. Spayed and neutered cats are less territorial, and rarely spray.

Sometimes your cats spray because they feel stressed. This could be caused by a change in your schedule, or the introduction of a new cat, or even by extra noise from road repairs outside your home.

Other times, if you have too many cats in your home, one or more of your cats will spray.

So, how can you stop this problem? First, you need to identify the reason for spraying, then eliminate that reason. Unfortunately, this is easier to say than to do. In May 2004, the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists published a case study where they took 3 or 4 years to stop this cat spraying and urination problem.

You may want to get some help from your vet. In some cases, he might prescribe some kind of cat Prozac which could help reduce the stress your cat is feeling. This would reduce the spraying problem.

Dealing with cat problems is tough unless you know kitty well. Sometimes, it can be very helpful to ask a third party like your vet for some help and advice.

Do you want to learn more about training a cat with problems? Visit http://cattraining.kelvinmart.com/ to learn more about cat problems.

The 5 Painful Conditions of Poor Cat Urinary Tract Health

By Kate Rieger

Cat urinary tract health care remains one of the top challenges facing caring cat owners. Be on the lookout for the symptoms cats show when they have poor cat urinary tract health or other feline urinary tract disorder(FLUTD). You also have simple, natural remedies to include in your cat's daily diet that will reduce if not eliminate the chances of your cat experiencing the excruciating pain associated with urinary tract infection in cats.

You or someone you know probably has endured the human version of a urinary tract infection. There is an intense, persistent urge to urinate accompanied by a burning sensation when urinating. The urine has a strong odor and there may even be blood in the urine.

In the cat world, these symptoms are very similar except that progressed cases of urinary tract infection in cats can lead to a very painful death. Cats of any age may suffer from the disorder, but older cats are more susceptible. Another similarity to human UTI is that both female and male cats can suffer from poor cat urinary tract health.

In fact, male cats are more susceptible to one condition more so than female cats -- urinary stones.

5 Conditions of Poor Cat Urinary Cat Health

1. Incessant licking in the genital area
2. Blood in the urine
3. Urinary(Bladder) stones also called uroliths
4. Urethral obstruction
5. Death

The only way your cat knows how to deal with an itch or burning sensation in his genital area is to lick and lick and lick. One clue to a urinary tract infection in cats is that you find urine on the floor, or on tile or in the bathtub -- really a blessing because you can see it.

Blood may be visible in the urine. However, if you don't see any blood that doesn't mean its not there. A trained eye using a microscope will note if there is blood in the urine.

Urinary stones are a huge reason to alert on changes in your cat's behavior pointing out urinary tract infections in cats. These stones are mineral crystals formed in the bladder.

When the stones leave the bladder they travel down the urethra tube to exit the body. The stones become lodged in the urethra and block the passage of urine. This problem occurs more in male cats than females as the male urethra tube is narrower. Smaller stones cause a blockage where the female's wider urethra allows the smaller crystals to pass through.

This is where time becomes a critical factor. If the stones aren't dislodged naturally or medically, your cat endures a painful death. You have 72 hours from the onset to deal with the stones. Unfortunately, your cat may not display symptoms for 24 to 48 hours.

Causes

It was once thought that certain minerals in cat food contributed to urinary stones. Bacteria can also lead to poor cat urinary tract health.

Today, veterinarians pay more attention to the ph level of the cat's urine. Ph is the measurement of the acid or alkaline level of the urine. Veterinarians recommend the ph level be around 6.0 to 6.5.

Prevention

Ask your vet to check the ph level in your cat's urine.

Place clean, fresh water bowls throughout the house and outdoors so that water is very available to your cats. Provide smaller meals more frequently. Minimize major routine changes.

Make no mistake about it, you can help your cat stick to a simple, natural pet care program that promotes vital cat urinary tract health. There are a number of natural remedies available that are blends of herbs tested and proven to treat painful and chronic urinary tract infection in cats.

Kate Rieger has been owned by 15+ cats and is a champion of natural remedies for her own cats and her feral cat neighbors. While she would like to extend simple, natural care to every pet in the neighborhood, she takes it one animal at a time. Kate is on good behavior during her speaking engagements at various organizations where she spreads the word about natural alternatives to pet ailments. Drop by and pick up more free tips at Pet-Natural-Remedies.com and heal your cat today.

Cat Houses - Purchasing One For Your Feline Friend

By Jennifer Akre

Cats are funny creatures and they bring plenty of fun to their humans. Many humans enjoy watching their cats and one of the best ways to watch them is with the purchase of cat houses for them to play and lounge in.

Most are made to last and they have plenty of places where a cat can sit, sleep, climb and even smack things along the way. It is important to make sure that if you buy one, that it is something that your cat will enjoy using.

There are many different designs for these cat furnishings and they are made in a variety of materials. You will find that most of them are made out of red cedar or other cedar because it is the sturdiest wood for this purpose. You will also find that there are many different designs. Of course your cat doesn't really care about the design but the warmer and more interesting the one is, the better. It should have lots of places that your cat can climb into and out of so that it will appreciate your efforts at providing them with shelter and entertainment.

You can find cat houses for inside and outdoor cats. Of course they will be a little different and you will need different spaces for them. If you have more than one cat, you will want enough room in these furnishings for both cats to play, have their own sleeping space, and have plenty to do.

It is also a good idea to go with multi-level options because of your cat's natural need to explore and to climb. Within the walls of them, cats can do whatever they want -- this will keep kittens off your drapes! Always leave plenty of fresh water in them somewhere so that your cats will have access to it. If you aren't sure what type of to get you can always go online for ideas.

There are several reasons to buy them and one of the biggest is because you want to pamper your cat. They are a wonderful way to give your cat a space of their own. Yes, cat houses are great because they keep your cats occupied. If they are outside cats and they tend to roam, these furnishings can keep them in the yard. Sprinkle a little catnip in it and they will stay all the time. Just keep it refreshed regularly.

For indoor cats, cat houses will keep them occupied by giving them something to do. Cats get bored easily when they are young and they need something to explore. When they are older they need somewhere quiet that they can sleep. Warm and comfortable cat houses might be just what they need. When you have had cats awhile you know that their favorite thing to do is to cuddle and be cozy. They are the perfect places to do this and since they sleep most of the time, you will be able to find them when you need them.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shop that offer both items and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it's your living, bedroom, or even your deck or patio, there are many tips you can use to make those spots both functional and beautiful. Today, she offers advice on how to create a fabulous pet area by using charming cat furniture and delightful dog supplies to pamper your pet.

Understanding Why Cats Have Whiskers

By Hester-Lynne Murdoch

What are they? The long, stiff, specialized hairs, on a cat's face and body.

Name: Vibrissae; also known as tactile hairs or whiskers.

Description: They differ from the cat's normal body hair in that they are long, tapering, stiff yet flexible hairs. They are double and even three times the thickness of a normal cat hair and many times the length; they can grow to be extremely long.

The most obvious will be found in horizontal rows on the puffy area known as the whisker pad on the cheeks of a cats face, mainly in the area between the corner of a cat's mouth and the outer corner of the nose. Yet there are many more all around the face, in the area of the chin, and the eyebrows, also on the body especially around the front-, the hind legs and feet, although they are sometimes shorter.

Each whisker is rooted deeply in a follicle, surrounded by a highly developed sheath of muscle tissue, rich in nerves and sensory cells, sealed by a capsule of blood, called a blood sinus. The muscle is used to move the whisker in any direction to optimise use. The nerves connect the whisker to a large section of the brain of the cat especially reserved to processing the nerve impulses coming from the whiskers. Touching the whisker, causes it to move, the blood in the sinus is compressed to the opposite side. The blood amplifies the movement, thus allowing the sensor cells to detect the most miniscule of movement. All this: because the whiskers are one of the cat's main survival tools. Their function:

Measurement When a cat's facial whiskers are "put up" and alert, they are roughly equal to the width of the body. If you observe a cat testing an opening, it will stick its head in and out of the opening and then only proceed. What has happened is it was measuring the size of the hole compared to its body size and width. The cat has learnt with experience how much pressure on the sensor cells in the hair follicle equals a safe passage.

Navigation A cat has excellent sight many times that of man, but still it cannot see when it is completely dark, here its whiskers aid the cat to feel its way around. A very dark night or an enclosed area (man made like a tunnel or natural for example a cave) and there is no or very little light the cat will rely on air currents to navigate. Its whiskers can detect the slightest movement of air, air moves in distinct ways around barriers, the cat has learnt to read these signals.

Mood indication

Whiskers are a good indication of a cat's state of mind.

*Whiskers pulled back towards its body: - defensive, aggressive, angry.

*Whiskers pushed forward: - very happy, curious.

*"Put-up"-extended to their full in a circle around the face: - alert, interested, curious.

*Forward pointed: - excited, animated.

*Relaxed: - resting, content.

A few more facts:

*Similar to normal hair they do fall out naturally and re-grow.

*Cats whiskers are like human finger prints, the individual aligning is unique to each cat.

*The breed of cat called the "Sphinx", often have no whiskers.

Why you shouldn't cut or trim a cat's whiskers

*Clipping, cutting or otherwise removing the cat's whiskers is cruel; it is likened to removing one of our senses, e.g. Sight (to be blinded), smell (to lose your sense of smell), touch (to not be able to feel), taste (not to be able to taste anything) or hear (to be deaf), in a cats case they have the special sense of detection; the work of the whiskers.

*You will be depriving the animal of one of his means of communication (see mood indication above).

*You will be putting the animals life in danger, it will not be able to discern openings accurately and runs the danger of getting stuck, with possible fatal consequences.

Written in loving memory of all those wonderful felines that purred their way through my life.

For this article and other cat related articles, or to contact me please visit my blog called "the Cat's whiskers" at The Cats Whiskers Hester-Lynne Murdoch: I have been involved with cats for at least 45 years. I have bred them (long haired and short-haired breeds) and showed them with a good deal of success, but my most proud achievement is moving to a farm overrun with feral cats. I set out to tame them to with the purpose to neuter and spay each and every one to stop the uncontrolled breeding in the kindest way. I am happy to say the job (76 cats) was done in a time of 2 months and 4 days. Today no more cats are born there and as the older ones pass on, the population is becoming more and more acceptable. One more thing, I raised a Cape Blackfoot cat (African Wildcat species) from closed eyed kitten size to a mature male with the intention of releasing him back into the wild, this was done with great success. I still see him at a distance and am happy to report he is a huge (for a small breed), healthy and very successful male specimen today. Please feel free to use this article - provided it is published in its entirety, with my resource box and a "live" linkable link to http://www.catsfelinestameandwild-hester-lynne.blogspot.com/ * The Encyclopedia of Cats - Michael Pollard * A Passion for Cats - The Cat Protection League * 101 Questions your cat would ask its vet - Bruce Fogle * Cats - Christine Metcalf * Catwatching - Desmond Morris * Wikipedia.org

Avoid Cat Health Problems With a Regular Wellness Exam

By Dr. R.J. Peters

While an indoor cat can easily live to about 20 years of age with proper care and the safety of the indoor environment, we must remember that our pets still age faster than we do. This means your cat is already in "middle age" by the age of 4, and is considered a "senior" by 7. Because their time line runs faster than ours, it doesn't take as long for some diseases or conditions to develop, such as diabetes, heart disease, and kidney disease.

A wellness exam by your veterinarian at an early age helps to establish a "wellness profile" which provides a baseline to measure against for the rest of your pet's life. A typical exam should consist of a consultation first, so you can report facts about your cat's behavior and habits, since you are the most reliable source of this information. You likely spend every day with your pet, so you will be the first to notice any changes in these routines.

The next phase of an exam will be physical, as the vet tests the major systems, such as circulatory, respiratory, muscular, elimination, dental, skin and fur, ears, etc. This should be followed by laboratory tests to be sure there are no hidden problems internally, including blood, urine and stool samples. These can be used to rule out parasites and certain infectious conditions.

A good vet will then counsel you about appropriate preventive care, which should include information about vaccination, nutrition, dental care, and general health care guidelines specific to cats. Unless you are into professional breeding (as opposed to accidental, or "backyard breeding"), it's extremely important to spay and neuter, as this will also help to prevent certain forms of cancer in your cat.

If you want your pets to be with you as long as possible, follow these guidelines to help maintain their health and well being.

Dr. R.J. Peters has an extensive background in health care, animal care, journalism, computer repair and systems administration. Visit http://www.theproblemcat.com for more articles and information about cats.

Cat Litter Box Problems

By Connie Limon

Sometimes a cat will not like the location of his or her litter box. This can occur for several different reasons:

• Some kind of pain at the location of the box

• Something that has caused the cat to be afraid at the location

• An odor around the location of the box

Where is the best spot to put a litter box?

• Most cats prefer an easily accessible spot, but one with privacy

• Avoid placing the box near a noisy appliance like the washer, dryer or furnace

• Experiment with types of boxes: some cats like the privacy of closed boxes, and most like large boxes, but some like small ones.

In general, cats usually dislike having to eliminate near where they eat, so avoid putting the food and water bowls near the litter box.

Stress or anxiety as a source of cat litter box location must always be considered, but is not as frequent a cause of house soiling. It has been said that one cannot have too many litter boxes. A household of three cats would probably fair much better with four boxes.

Specific kinds of stress such as separation anxiety, previously seen only in dogs, but now believed to occur in cats also, usually occurs when there has been a prolonged absence of the owner, typically 8 hours or more. The house soiling typically occurs 8 to 12 hours after the owner's departure. This behavior can also involve diarrhea and destructive events, and can be treated in much the same way dogs are treated. Training through graduated departures with a lot of skill, time and patience as well as medications help separation anxiety disorders.

Some owners report cats that are naturally shy or fearful. This type of personality may not want to come out into the open to go to the litter box. If there is an identifiable cause such as a certain person, cat dog, object or sound, try to remove or modify it. You might also try using a litter box in a "safe" location for the shy and fearful type cat.

Overcrowding

Some cats may enjoy the company of 20 other cats, while others are unhappy with just one other cat in the household or any other kind of animal. It is actually not natural for cats to live in social groups all the time as they spend most of their time in solitary circumstances, getting together for breeding and sometimes raising kittens together. Cats usually see all living objects, including people in the home as part of the social group. Adding to the group in any way can be upsetting to a cat. One way of solving a multiple cat home environment is to provide plenty of nesting spots vertically like cat trees and shelving so as to give each cat a place of its own away from the others.

For new kitten owners, there are a few things you can do to help avoid house soiling problems. They include:

• Make the litter box location easily accessible, private and in a low traffic area

• Try to provide at least one litter box per cat

• Use finely-grained, non-scented litters

• Do not put food and water beside the litter box

• Scoop the litter box at least daily

• Change clay litters at least once weekly

• Change scoop able litters every 6 to 8 weeks

• Avoid frightening the cat in the litter box, trapping or catching it there

• Never punish a cat for house soiling

• Make changes to the litter box filler or location very gradually

• Call your vet when house soiling occurs to rules out any medical problems that may be causing the problem

Disclaimer: The information in this article is not meant to diagnose or treat any kind of health problem in your cat. You should always consult with a trusted veterinarian for all health problems.

Source: The Winn Feline Foundation Online

Written by: Connie Limon. I raise the beautiful, emerald green-eyed shaded and chinchilla silver Persian cat from champion and grand champion lines. For more information about us and to be added to our contact list, please visit http://www.fairydewsilverpersian.vpweb.com For a variety of reprint articles visit Camelot Articles at http://www.camelotarticles.com

The Ultimate Sisal Cat Scratching Post - A Review

By Amy Yang

Cats have very particular tastes, I have found with my own two cats. One of my cats is large, I think he is part Maine Coon, so the scratching post I use has to be able to withstand his large size and strength, even when he feels like climbing the post. My cat also likes to scratch and stretch several times a day, so the scratching post also has to be very durable. Out of all the posts I have tried, the best one is the Ultimate Sisal Cat Scratching Post.

Durability

One of the best attributes of this post is its durability. My large Maine Coon mix cat scratches long and hard and this post holds up. It is still looking like it did the day I bought it!

Height

At 32 inches high, the Ultimate Sisal Cat Scratching Post is perfect for my Maine Coon mix because it is tall enough for him to fully stretch out when he is scratching. When he was younger, he was able to climb on it as well. For smaller cats, they can climb to the top of the post. With the addition of the optional perch accessory, it provides the cat an extra place to sit and watch the house and activities going on.

Decor

The best thing that I like about this post is that it does not look like the traditional scratching post. I have had comments from visitors on how good the post looks and it fits in great with my decor. I have natural woods for my furniture and the natural wood coloring of the post matches perfectly!

Stability

My cat is still growing and he is now at close to 15 pounds, a big cat! So stability of the scratching post is super essential for my cat to be comfortable using his post. With its wide base, it does not budge when my cat decides to climb it to the top. He loves it!

Without a doubt the Ultimate Sisal Cat Scratching Post is THE best!

Mickey, the author's cat, has a review of this post as well. You can read what he has to say here: http://www.squidoo.com/sisalcatscratchingpost Amy Yang, the author, also has a blog of the best cat products she has come across. See what products she has on her blog at: http://bestcatcareproducts.blogspot.com/

How to Get Your Cat to Use His Scratching Post

By Amy Yang

We all know cats have claws and that they all need to scratch. Some cats are really good at picking up on the fact that they should scratch only on their scratching post, but others, well, they could use some enlightening! There are only three major steps involved in teaching cats, even stubborn ones, to only use their scratching post when they feel the need to stretch and scratch.

Step 1: Caught In The Act

The first step, and this is the most critical step, is to catch your cat in the act! The second you see your cat start to make the motions of scratching on something inappropriate, give him a firm No!. You have to be serious when you say that! Cats are very smart and they, like kids, know how to manipulate and they know when you do not really mean what you say. So, mean it and feel it! When you give the firm No!, try and make eye contact with your cat and give him a very stern look! If that does not work, you can try a spray with a water bottle or shaking a can with some pennies inside.

Step 2: Redirect Your Cat's Energy

Once your cat stops, entice him over to his scratching post and show him what he is supposed to do. That's right, get down to his level and start scratching the post yourself! This may feel funny, but your cat will appreciate it because he will understand what you are showing him. Some suggest that you physically move your cat over to the scratching post, but if you think about it, it does not teach your cat that he needs to move himself over to his post when he feels the urge to scratch. By encouraging him to come over to his scratching post, it teaches him that when he wants to scratch, he should make his way over to his post instead of waiting for you to come pick him up and plop him next to his post.

Step 3: Praise, Praise, and Praise

Cats, like kids, thrive when they know that they are doing what you want of them. And the best way of showing them that they are doing the right thing is to give them praise when they do something right. Once you feel that you have praised enough, praise some more, and then finish off with some more praise. Your cat will reciprocate by doing more of that is required of him. And you will feel good that you have taught your cat to be a model pet!

The author's cat, Mickey, has a review of the Ultimate Sisal Scratching Post that any cat will love. Read Mickey's review by following this link: http://www.squidoo.com/sisalcatscratchingpost Amy Yang, the author also has a blog featuring the best cat products she has come across. View the products at her blog by following this link: http://bestcatcareproducts.blogspot.com/