Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Declawing Cats - Unnatural, Unpleasant and Unnecessary

By Marcus De Jong

Declawing a cat or kitten is usually done to prevent the owner's furniture from being damaged. If the owner has children in the house, then declawing is a drastic measure they might take to prevent any harm. However, it is very unnatural and unpleasant for a cat to live without claws.

First of all, it is important to know what declawing is. Contrary to what some might think, declawing does not mean that the feline is simply having their nails trimmed. To be declawed is when the entire nail is removed.

The only way that this can be done is through surgery. Not only is the claw removed, but also the cells that are responsible for the growth. Another addition which causes pain to the feline is the removal of the terminal bone of the toe.

After having their claws removed, the inability to scratch is not the only unfortunate event for the feline. They are also unable to defend themselves in a fight. Even if the cat stays indoors all of the time, you can never be sure when he or she will dart out the door behind you.

The cat will not only be unable to defend themselves, but they will not be able to climb up a tree in order to escape. Indoors, if your cat previously enjoyed jumping up on things, they will have difficulty.

Other studies have found that a declawed cat cannot even maintain cleaning itself normally. This is due to the fact that cats use their claws for grooming purposes. A cat with claws can reach certain areas of the head, mouth, or neck that a cat that is declawed cannot.

While many cats who have been declawed do adjust, their life is never normal after that day. Other cats have been found to become very aggressive and start to bite its owner in order to compensate for their insecurity.

The actual operation can be performed at any age, but many vets who agree to operate will recommend that it be done when the cat is still a kitten. This is due to the fact that the kitten will be able to adjust more easily to the new unnatural way of living, opposed to a cat that has lived differently for many years.

If the operation is not performed correctly, it can lead to serious problems, such as infections, paw deformation, or even the claws growing back. The overall recovery time is around five or seven days.

Generally, the process is quite painful for the cat or kitten. While during the operation, there is an anesthetic involved, but afterwards is when the pain hits. The final conclusion is that not only is having your cat declawed cruel and inhumane, it is also risky and unnecessary.

It is understandable that you do not want your furniture ruined. A cat scratching post is a sensible alternative. Some cats will even use it as their new bed, and you can purchase one that has a bed for the cat to lie on.

You will probably not see results overnight. It will take some time to train your cat or kitten to use the post instead. Kittens are also much easier to train, but there is no evidence that an older cat cannot learn a new trick as well.

One way to get your feline to warm up to the post instantly is to place raw fish or shrimp all around the post. The cat will flock to it and will eventually realize that the post is their territory, which is one of the reasons the cat scratches in the first place. While you do not have to leave smelly fish on the post all of the time, you can feed the cat its normal food there on a daily basis.

If your cat continues to scratch on furniture even after they have gotten used to the post, there are specific cat repellents that keep cats away from spots that they like to claw. You can talk to your veterinarian about these sprays. More than likely they have it at the veterinarian office.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Marc de Jong is a journalist, webmaster and long-time cat lover. He's the owner of http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com, a highly popular site on cat health and pregnancy in cats.

Cat Litter Box Problems - What You Can Do

By Marcus De Jong

Bringing home a kitten or an adult sized cat to your home can bring great joy. Many cat owners think of their feline friends as a member of the family. Studies have shown that playing with a kitten or cat at least once a day can lower high blood pressure and lower the risk for depression.

However, with any household pet, certain issues can arise that are hard to deal with. Litter box problems are one of the most common. Fortunately, there are solutions, but it is first important to understand if your feline does have a problem.

Many people associate litter box problems with kittens, but it can show with any age of cat. The most common issue with litter boxes is the cat urinating or defecating anywhere but in the actual litter box.

Even if your cat is a kitten, this is not normal, and you need to train the kitten to know that. If you see your kitty doing these things, catch them in the act. Say something so that they stop what they are doing, but do not be scary about it. Then take the kitten to the litter box and sit them down at it.

If you have a new kitten at home, training the kitten to learn to use the box shouldn't be very difficult. By instinct, cats know to use the bathroom in an area where they can cover up their business with dirt or other substance. Once they know that the box has something for them to cover up the evidence with, they will know to use it there all of the time.

Cats are creatures of habit, and they love a schedule. You might notice how your kitty will wake you up at the same time each morning to eat. They also expect you to be home each night at the same time to feed them. Their bathroom schedule is usually the same. When it is the normal time that your cat likes to use the bathroom in other areas of the house, lock the cat in a room with the litter box.

Make sure that there is nothing else in the room to keep the cat entertained. Instinct should make the cat use the litter box. If it does, reward your kitty with a treat. However, you should not torture the cat by keeping it locked in the room for a long period of time.

If you have an older cat and they have just started their bad litter box habits, then there are several reasons why the issue has arrived:

The tray might be dirty. Cats have a different idea about hygiene than we do. You might not smell something but they do. If you cannot clean the tray daily, then invest in a self cleaning system.

The litter box could be in an area with a large amount of noise. Try relocating it to an area that is quiet. Cats tend to feel scared in an area with a large amount of racket.

Just like humans, cats are known to be picky and set in their ways. Your cat might prefer a different type of litter. Return to the previous brand until you have found something that your feline likes. Cats also hate change, so try not to switch brands often.

If there is more than one cat using the litter box, then it might be slightly crowded. Cats are very territorial and it is best for each feline to have their own bathroom spot.

A medical problem is the last scenario. If urination or defecation has become painful for the cat, it will blame the box on the problem and try to go somewhere else. The only way to solve this is to take the cat to the vet.

Always remember that cats are very clean animals. They despise litter box problems just like you do. The problem is that they need your assistance to fix it. Your veterinarian will have other ideas for you to try, and he or she might have some reading information as well.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Marc de Jong is a journalist, webmaster and long-time cat lover. He's the owner of http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com, a highly popular site on cat care and pregnancy in cats.

New Kitten Care - How to Kitten-Proof Your Home

By Liz Allan

A very important aspect of new kitten care is keeping your kitten safe from danger. There are a lot of potential hazards around the home for little kittens. This article lists the most common ones and suggests ways you can minimize risks to your kitten and keep her safe.

Washing machine and tumble dryer:

If you leave the door open and there are clothes inside, there's a good chance your kitten will climb in and go to sleep. Always check your kitten isn't inside these before you use them.

Fridge and freezer:

As soon as you've used these, shut the door.

Hob and oven:

Shut the oven door as soon as you've finished with it. Cover hot hob plates.

Raw meat:

Keep it out of reach - it can give your kitten food poisoning.

Garbage:

Put all garbage in a sealed bin that your kitten can't access.

Plants:

Many plants are poisonous to cats. If you're not sure whether a certain plant is safe for your kitten if she eats it, put it out of her reach.

Pot pourri:

The oils used to scent this can be poisonous.

Open fires and candles:

Use a guard on the fire. Never leave a kitten in a room alone with lit candles.

Electrical wires:

If your kitten is a wire chewer, you'll need to put wires out of her reach or buy plastic covers for them.

Curtain tie-backs and cords on window blinds:

Kittens can get caught in these. Either remove them completely or tie them up out of reach.

Filled bathtubs and sinks:

Make sure your kitten doesn't have access to the room when the tub or sink is full.

Open toilet:

Try to get into the habit of keeping the lid down when the toilet's not in use.

Medications:

Keep them in a cupboard that your kitten can't get into.

Small objects:

Kittens can swallow small things like paper clips, rubber bands, staples and needles.

String, wool, fishing line and thread:

Kittens can swallow large quantities of these. For this reason, balls of wool or string and pom-poms aren't good toys for cats.

Household chemicals:

Most cleaners etc. are highly poisonous to cats and need to be kept somewhere your kitten can't access.

Tobacco:

Tobacco, nicotine patches and nicotine gum are all poisonous to cats.

Reclining chairs, futons, folding beds, drawers:

If kittens get caught when this type of furniture is moved, they can get crushed. Make sure your kitten isn't asleep somewhere she could get trapped before you use any of these.

Safety is a major factor for new kitten care. It's fairly easy to keep your kitten safe as long as you anticipate potential dangers and take the necessary steps to prevent them. Putting brightly colored post it notes up around your home is a good way to do this. Stick the notes on or near potential dangers - for example the fridge, washing machine, oven, toilet and futon - and anywhere else that could be a hazard.

Liz Allan has 25 years experience of caring for cats. To find out more about new kitten care, visit: http://www.cat-behavior-explained.com/all-about-kittens.html

For more information on cat care and behavior, sign up for her FREE ezine at http://www.cat-behavior-explained.com/cat-behavior-explained.html

Cats Soiling in the House

By Kathy Davison

Soiling and not using a litter tray are problems that many cat owners sometimes face with indoor cats. Sometimes this can be a sign of illness and a visit to the vet might sort out the problem .it could be the cat is suffering from a bladder problem or constipated and so it begins to associate the litter try with pain. Many time indoor cats could be allergic to a food or some chemicals in the home, carpet, shampoo, paint and the explanation may be quite simple.

In other cases your cat may be asking for the litter tray to be changed more often or it may be unhappy with the litter being used. Try a finer grained litter or stop using those with a deodorant added. Other possibilities are that the tray is placed too close to the cat's food or in a high traffic area where feet constantly tramp past. If lack of peace and privacy could be the problem, a hooded litter tray may be the solution.

Never smack or scold an indoor cat for soiling, even if you catch it in the act: this will increase any feelings of insecurity and make the behavior worse. The old idea of rubbing the cat's nose in it is even more counterproductive; the cat might enjoy the smell and want more.

Begin by cleaning the area with a warm solution of biological detergent, followed by surgical spirit or a weak solution of household bleach and a scattering of baking soda. Check your fabrics for colour fast first!

Do not use any disinfectant containing chlorine or ammonia; it may smell clean and fresh to you but to a cat it smells as though another cat has been in the house and draws it back to that place. Some disinfectants can also be absorbed through the paws.

Discourage the cat from revisiting the soiled area by laying a sheet of slightly crinkled aluminum foil over it or try feeding the cat in that place, once it is completely clean. No cat will soil its feeding place. If the cat tends to leave a deposit in the middle of your bed-this seems to be a favorite location for an indoor cat- if the cat is upset at being left alone or left behind while the family goes on Holiday-fix a sheet of plastic over the bed.

Kathy lecturers in Animal Health and Behavior in a college in N.Ireland. She has an online business dedicated to cats and dogs.

http://www.yourcatmydog.com

Cat Spraying All Around the House?

By Kathy Davison

Cats are much more trainable than many owners realize and if behavior problems do arise they can often be dealt with quite simply so long as you take the time to see the world from your cats point of view.

Cats of both sexes sometimes spray when they feel insecure. By establishing a sense of their own smell their confidence is boosted.

Spraying can become a problem if you cat starts to spray furniture and curtains. The first thing to look at is the reasons why cats spray .Both sexes spray and neutered males are just as likely to spray as un-neutered. Normally cats do not spray indoors as they feel secure and there is no need to protect their territory. When several share a house they may feel the need to mark their territory. If the spraying has suddenly started look for some changes in the house hold that could have caused stress.

For some cats this could be the installation of a cat flap. This blurs the distinction between the indoors and outdoors and the cat needs to mark its smell.

Some owners spray pepper or chili or wipe the areas with vinegar but this does not really work. You can try to place a tray of marbles below the favourite spraying places but if you cat is determined he will just stand further away.A good idea that can work is to put a sheet of household foil around the spot as cats do not like the sound of urine hitting the foil.

The psychological approach may be more successful.

If you have more than two cats try giving each a separate place to sleep in. If a neighbour's cat is always lurking outside then chase it away.if you have installed a cat flap try boarding it up and see if the behavior stops.

In difficult cases confine the cat to one room and make sure it has a cosy bed under a radiator and its toys. Make sure you do not leave it for too long and its sense of security will increase. as you see the situation improve let is use more rooms of the house and keep an eye on it. Lastly if none of these strategies work then see your vet about hormone treatment.

Kathy lectures in human and Animal Health and behavior.

Her online business is dedicated to cats and dogs - http://www.yourcatmydog.com

How to Train Your Cat to Use Cat Scratching Posts

By Katherin Towers

Cats are cute. Cats are loveable. Unfortunately, many cats love to scratch your furniture and carpets. If you do not want to replace your sofa every few months, you will need to train your cat to use cat scratching posts. Although this is not a difficult task, it can be time-consuming. It needs a lot of love, patience and understanding from you. If you cannot make this kind of commitment to your feline friend, you are better of giving him away.

Having said that, here is a shortcut which work for many cats. Catnip works wonders for training your cat to use the scratching post. For your convenience, modern science has created a catnip spray which you can use to spray the cat scratching post. You should place this post near the sofa or furniture where your cat likes to scratch. You should also get a cat repellant spray - to spray the places where he likes to scratch.

Many cats scratch furniture as a means of marking their territory. The scratching serves as a visible mark and also leaves behind a scent from the glands in his paws. This means your cat, or cats, probably have more than one favorite piece of furniture where they like to scratch. You will need to buy more than one scratching post.

Cats also scratch furniture as part of their exercise, as well as to shed the dead outer layers of their claws. You should not buy a cat scratching post just because it looks cool. You should buy a post which fits your cat best. One way is to find something which feels like your furniture or carpet. Do not limit your thoughts to just a scratching post. Cats which like to scratch carpets often respond well to something flat laid down flat on the ground. If your cat is like this, it may take longer to train him to use a vertical scratching post.

Given this fact, it is better if you only buy cat scratching posts from your local shops - where you can see and feel the material of the post. If it looks or feels different from the furniture which your cat is scratching now, he is unlikely to switch to the new post. This factor makes buying cat furniture online a bit chancy.

Cat scratching posts bought from the store can be expensive for some cat owners. Here are some ideas for cheap, homemade cat furniture:

  • Cheap, square pieces of carpet which you can buy from Wal Mart, etc. Should cost you under $10. You may also be able to get some free from your local carpet shop.
  • Cardboard cartons and boxes - you should be able to get these free from your local grocery shop.
  • Wooden logs.
  • Old furniture, or parts of old furniture. If you have some handy wood-working skills, you can turn a small cabinet into a cat house.
  • Rough wooden planks.

Here is another shortcut to prevent your cat from damaging your furniture - regularly take him to the vet to get his nails clipped, either once or twice a month. The vet will clip the hooked part of the claw. This is the part which causes the most damage to your furniture and carpet. You may want the vet to teach you how to do it yourself. Please note that this is different from declawing your cat, which is cruel and inhumane. Declawing actually involves chopping off the tips of your cats toes. How would you feel if someone cut off the tips of your fingers?

Some cats appear intransigent, and refuse to use the cat scratching post. The fact is, you may just need to understand him better. And also use a different way of training him. You have to remember that shortcuts do not always work.

Do you have problems with your cat scratching your furniture? Does kitty refuse to use the cat scratching post? Click here to learn more ways to stop your cat scratching your furniture.

Eliminate Cat Spray

By Ian Pennington

Both male and female cats will spray in particular places to mark their territory. Although it is more common in male cats it is by no means unheard of in females. The difference is that a female will spray squatting and not usually so much. As it can cause a problem, especially when it is being done inside the home, it is best to try and eliminate cat spray.

To try and change a cat's habits you firstly have to understand why they do it. The urine spray of a cat contains pheromones which they use as a means of communication. The smell of a spray will be individual to that cat and others will recognize it and know that a particular cat has claimed a territory. Spraying can sometimes be a sign of insecurity. If you cat feels that his space is being threatened by another he may feel a need to mark his territory as a warning to the other to back off. If there is a cat living very close, next door for example, and your cat is easily able to see them outside through the window, it may be easy to eliminate cat spray just by restricting their view. If they cannot see the other cat then they may not worry so much about an invasion of their territory and may well stop spraying.

Cats can also become quite insecure about you. Your pet may respond well to a very regular routine when it comes to meal times and cleaning litter trays etc. Try to stick to a certain time for feeding. This way he will know that he will be fed and will not be worried and insecure. Cats are very clean animals and like a clean environment. Cleaning their litter tray regularly and at around the same time each day will take another worry off their mind. The more relaxed your cat is, the easier it will be to eliminate cat spray.

One way which is almost guaranteed to work is to have your cat neutered. In these days of massive cat overpopulation, it is advisable to have your pets neutered as a matter of course. If your male cat is only a kitten and has not yet started spraying, neutering him before he starts will probably mean that he never will. However, if he is an older cat and is already in the habit, it may take a while after the operation before you can eliminate cat spraying. You are advised to thoroughly clean all the areas where he is used to spraying whilst he is recovering from his operation so that once he is up and about there is no trace of his scent. Rather than encouraging him to re-mark his territory it seems to stop them from doing so. It is possible to buy a product from pet stores which will remove all trace of the odours.

Some cats may never stop and you may find it difficult or impossible to eliminate cat spray completely. However, with some patience and understanding you should at least be able to stop him from spraying in your home.

Ian Pennington is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about cat spray, please visit Spay Neuter Clinics Today for current articles and discussions.

 

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