How the Experts Do Cat Grooming As a Health Check and Prevent Hairballs From Happening

By Paul Kramer

Grooming sessions are the perfect time to check your cat for potential health problems. After all, the sooner you catch a problem, the better chance that your veterinarian has to fix it.

So, while grooming, look for the following symptoms:

- lumps, sores, or tender areas anywhere on her body or changes in her fur or skin

- excess discharge from her eyes, signs of squinting, or other abnormal eye appearance.

- excess discharge from her nose

- excess discharge or sore or red areas in her ears

- cuts or other abnormalities on her feet

- redness or sores on her gums, loose teeth, lumps in the mouth or drooling

Proper grooming is important throughout your cat's life but especially so in her senior years. As your cat ages, stiffening joints and waning energy may make it difficult for your old friend to groom herself.

The infamous hairball is formed when your cat ingests hair while licking herself. Her stomach cannot digest the hairs, and they gloom together into a ball. As owners know all too well, most cats cough up their hairballs.

Sometimes, though, hairballs cause vomiting, constipation, and loss of appetite, and in severe cases they must be surgically removed. You can protect your cat from these problems by brushing her frequently, especially when she is shedding, and by feeding food designed to prevent hairballs. If the problem is frequent or severe, talk to your vet.

When humidity is low, especially in winter with the heat on in the house, you can get quite a charge out of your cat, a charge of static electricity. To reduce the chock, try rubbing a small amount of no rinse conditioner for cats into her fur. You also might consider adding moisture to your home with a humidifier.

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Cat Training Classes - Get Helpful Advice

By Nonye Adeyemo

There are more programs and classes now than ever before, geared towards cat training. These classes are very helpful and both the cats and the owners benefit from them.

Cats respond very well to praise, so when a cat make even a subtle improvement, reward your cat with praise enthusiastically so that the cat knows to continue making progress. Always make sure to give positive reenforcement for good behavior. When a cat knows that if it does something wrong, it will get punished in some way, be it not getting a treat that it loves or not getting to do what it would usually get to do under normal circumstances, it will learn not to things that you don't like. You have to do things in order and you should not rush things. Cats work at their own pace not yours. It is very important to give you cat time to learn new skills or patterns of behavior.

Things like treats are always helpful. When your cat does whatever it is that you want it to do, not only should you reward her with food but you should also smile and show that you are very happy about the cat's progress to that the cat will want to do more to impress you. A cat can do just about anything you want it to do if you take your time and reward good behavior.

Tip # 1: In order to house train your cat, you have to always be consistent with your cat.

Tip# 2: You must always stay calm. A cat can sense when you are really in control.

The Truth About Cat Food For Urinary Tract Health

By Rebecca Shelly

You've probably heard it a hundred times in the past when you would go to the veterinarian, dry food is best, it controlled weight and helped keep the cats teeth clean. Dry food may help with cleaner teeth, but free feeding of dry food is leading to obesity and other diseases. It is not just the quantity of dry food, it is the quality.

We are feeding our cats food which they really were not meant to eat. Dry food can cause dehydration and adding a small amount of water to the dry food can help with hydration levels but the best cat food for urinary tract health are diets high in moisture and are not fish based, but meat based. If your cat loves his dry food which is only about 10 percent moisture, try mixing a moist canned or packet food and gradually increase the moist food until he eating a mostly a canned food diet.

Cats need a natural raw diet of meat, bones and organs (originally this was a mouse or small rodents). Cats crave meat so adding raw meat or changing to a raw food diet would be an ideal cat food for urinary tract health. A healthy diet for the owner of the cat would include grains and vegetables but cats are carnivores and are not meant to eat vegetables, cereal and grain fillers. They are meant to eat meat, bone, organs, along with the fiber, minerals and vitamins, all of which is in the perfect food of a mouse. This is impractical for a domesticated house cat, so commercial products were made.

Now it is thought that the pH balance of urine is the cause of urinary problems, so pet food manufacturers wanting to sell their products have come up with all sorts of additives to prevent urinary problems. The manufacturers of urinary tract health cat food are putting urine acidifiers in the food which can cause metabolic acidosis, resulting in impaired kidney function and a loss of potassium which leads to mineral imbalance. This type of prevention only leads to problems of another sort.

The best urinary tract health cat food would be a diet with raw foods or canned, because although a cat eating only dry food does drink a bit more water than a cat on a canned or raw diet it is still only half of the water compared to a cat eating canned foods. When a cat is only eating dry food the urine becomes very concentrated which can contribute to feline urinary tract associated illnesses.

Cat food for urinary tract health includes raw or canned food, and adding natural immune builders, to support a healthy immune function and an overall balance to keep our pets healthy for years to come.

Rebecca Shelly has been studying alternative cat health applications for a many years. She is a regular contributor to natural pet health sites, discussing some of the most promising natural treatments for pet health on the market today. For more information on urinary tract health cat food visit http://www.pet-natural-cures.com to learn more about UTI medications and why we choose this natural remedy above all others.

How to Play With Your New Cat

By Dr. R.J. Peters

Those calendars of kittens playing with balls of yarn are cute, but don't let that give you the impression that cats should be playing with yarn... at least not by themselves.

A string-based cat toy should not be used by kitty without your supervision, as many cats will chew on string (or yarn) and swallow it, causing severe digestive tract damage. If it causes a stricture of the intestine, it could mean a painful death.

Cats and kittens love to chase stringy things, though, and it is generally safe to use them for play time. Just put those toys away when you are not present. After all, when cats play in the wild, their "toys" aren't always present, so don't feel you're hurting their feelings by taking them away. It's OK to leave the little fake mice out, or a ball, however.

They also tend to enjoy furry things, such as fluffy bedroom slippers, so if your cat is attacking yours, try to find a fluffy toy for her instead, unless you don't mind your slippers getting a little chewed up.

One of the purposes of cat play time in nature is to teach the young ones some living and survival skills, such as hunting and how to dispatch the prey once caught. It also may teach them how to get along with other cats and how to exert their dominance when needed. These skills may not be learned correctly if you bring home a kitten and use your own playtime methods instead.

For example, in the wild, catching a small rodent requires attention to the tiniest movements and sounds. So you might try tantalizing your little lion with a ball tied to some string, which you gently jiggle behind a chair or table leg, and let kitty attack it when she's ready to pounce. Jerk it away as she approaches, since a mouse would attempt to run away at the last moment, and kitty will learn the art of pursuit while developing quick reflexes.

To help her gain confidence as her skills improve, be sure to let her catch it often enough to encourage her.

You also might try lifting the ball into the air quickly to give her a chance to leap into the air, as if going for a bird. This type of play also helps a cat develop strong muscles and coordination.

Cats also enjoy reaching into things to grasp and remove something. This may come from a hunting instinct also, such as reaching for a small animal in a burrow. This skill can be honed by providing a toy that uses the principle of reaching and grasping, such as a box with holes in it just large enough for the cat's paw and arm, but too small to crawl into. Put fun items into the box for kitty to discover and recover.

Climbing is a natural activity for cats, too, so instead of yelling at the cat for climbing the drapes, it's a good idea to provide something you approve of, such as a cat tree or a tall scratching post. Maybe they will leave the drapes alone...

Lastly, a word of caution: Never use your hands for play. Always and only use a toy. Your hand should represent affection and comfort, so only use your hands for gentle handling and petting. If you allow your cat to play-attack your hands, or feet, you are only helping your cat to become a biter. This is never acceptable, and could lead to some serious injury when the cat becomes a large adult.

If your kitten or cat does attack your hand during play, don't yell or jerk back. This actually excites the hunting instinct, since you're acting like prey at that moment. Instead, freeze. Glare at the cat, and speak sharply, "No!" or, "Ouch!" When he lets go and looks at you quizzically, just ignore him and calmly do something else (such as leaving the room to get a bandaid!). Give him at least 5 minutes to also calm down before you begin a new play session.

For more information about solving cat behavior problems, visit Dr. Peters' web site: http://www.theproblemcat.com/faq.html

New Born Kitten Care

By Debra Atkins

Every so often you may find it necessary to take the place of the mother cat to care for the kitten. This could be due to several different scenarios. First off, the mother cat, for what ever reason may die. This could possibly leave several kittens motherless. Sometimes the mother cat will abandon a newborn for several different reasons. She could be sick herself and unable to attend to the kittens. She could have given birth of too many kitties or the abandoned kitten may be sick and the mother cat also referred to as the queen, will not take care of it. Or worst, someone dumped the kittens and left them to die. Sad but it does happen.

It is very important for the new born kittens to be warm and dry. A chilled kitten will die very quickly. Holding the kitten next to you will give it some warmth. You can use a heating pad on low, or a heat lamp if you use caution. Make sure the kitten has plenty of room to crawl away from the heat source, being it will overheat as well. A cardboard box with old towels will work fine. Do not try to feed a chilled kitten, this is very dangerous. A newborns normal temperature should be between 95°F and 99°F before trying to feed it. To avoid metabolic shock the kittens temperature should not drop below 94°F.

Take a few minutes after the kitten is warm to look at it and check for several different signs of sickness. Are the eyes clear and alert or do they have pus in them or mattered together. Does the ears look okay? Is the kitten active and moving around? If the kitten does not look or act alright, chances are it needs a vet. If this is not your kitten and is just a stray you found, and you do not want to take responsibility, please take a few minutes and call your local shelter. Someone will pick up the abandoned kittens and see that they are either taken care of or put out of their misery.

If this is not your kitten and you do plan to take responsibility, good for you. Next you need to hydrate the kitten. Some pedialyte, the same as given to humans will hydrate the kitten and keep it from going into shock. From the pet stores you will need K.M.R. or the equivalent. Do not use cow or any other type milk. Using an eye-dropper, syringe or a bottle you will need to feed the newborn kitten as many as 12 meals around the clock. Just like a human baby the kitten will want to eat during the night. Instructions on the box of K.M.R. will be very helpful for feeding by the weight of the kitten.

The new born kitten can not voluntarily eliminate feces or urine until around the age of three weeks. They will need to be stimulated by external means. The mother cat will take care of this if she is there, but if not the caregiver will have to help. Very simply, with a warm cloth or cotton ball gently rub to stimulate the urogenital reflex after every feeding and swab the perineal area. Also remember to wipe over the entire kitten to promote and ensure cleanliness. After about three weeks you can start the process of moving the kitten to a solid diet from a dish. Using the K.M.R. and making a milkshake or mush mixture out of the canned or dry kitten food will be a good way to start. Just be sure to use the kitten food and not the adult cat food. You may have to get a little creative in tempting the kitten to start eating. Perhaps with the kitten right at the dish of food, you dip a little on your finger and let the kitten eat it off your finger. As the kitten learns to eat, you can reduce the amount of K.M.R. Kittens will generally eat four or five smaller meals per day. Try not to leave the canned kitten food out in the dish. The canned food will spoil fast. Keep unused portions covered in the refrigerator and can be warmed in the microwave for a few seconds before feeding. Be sure and check that the food is not too hot.

A guide for kitten care care can be found at most of the local veterinarians and pet shops. With the proper kitten care and a lot of patience you will soon have your new friend in very good health.

A Knowledgeable Caregiver Leads to a Happy Healthy Cat!

By Audrey Frederick

What is a healthy cat? Knowing the difference between a healthy cat, one that is "off its feed" or one that is really ill can sometimes be the difference between life and death for a cat.

A healthy cat is bright-eyed, alert and active, wants to play and annoy you, enjoys its food and purrs up a storm. The coat of a healthy cat will be soft and shiny, with little shedding, except in the springtime. The body of a healthy cat will be fairly trim, no sores or rashes, teeth and gums in good condition, no fleas or other parasites, breath should be odor free (except after eating fish) and it should not be coughing, sneezing or have a runny nose.

The inner workings of a healthy cat should follow a normal pattern of regular bowel movements and urination.

A cat "off its feed" will generally exhibit all the healthy cat characteristics except it will not want to eat for a day. I have 3 cats and each one has gone through a day, where food is of little interest (maybe they found a mouse) and they were acting perfectly fine other wise. However, later in the evening or the following day their appetites were back and then some.

A cat that is ill may have many symptoms or just one or two. Some things to look for are lack of appetite that lasts for more than a day. Has your cat's behavior changed? Sudden inactivity may be a sign you cat is not feeling well. Constipation or diarrhea (blood in the stool) that lasts a day or two is also a sign that all is not well internally. Should you see blood in the cat's stool call your vet at once?

The inability to urinate could be a sign of blockage (cats do get kidney stones) or other bladder disorders again if you see any of these signs, including blood in the urine, call your vet as soon as possible. If your cat suddenly starts urinating outside the litter box, it may have a bladder problem. Some cats think the litter box is causing the pain.

Vomiting can be a sign of fur balls a common cat problem, however if your cat vomits more than once a week, call your vet.

A sudden increase in drinking water or an increase in your cat's appetite is also signal that something is amiss. Should your cat show any of these signs call your vet at once as it maybe a sign of something very serious.

A healthy cat will have eyes that are shiny and clear. Cats have what is known as a "third eye." It should not be seen. If you see a covering coming over the eye it is usually a sign that there is a health problem or the cat is suffering from some stress.

A healthy cat should have a soft velvety nose that is moist, but not runny. If your cat's mouth is not pink and clean looking and its teeth are getting a build up of tartar, have your vet examine your cat as soon as possible.

There will be times when you can treat an ailing cat at home, but the best advice I can give, is call your vet and get his/her advice first and then follow through with home treatment.

I tried to treat my cat, Smokey, when he has a small lesion on his leg with a "petroleum based ointment" not realizing that while he was licking it off, he was ingesting the product and as a result got very sick. A quick trip to an "emergency clinic" (night visit) and many dollars later I learned "petroleum based products" and cats tummies, do not get along very well.

So call your vet when you have the slightest doubt about the correct procedure to follow and even if you do know, it is a good idea to verify it with the vet.

One of the most important things you can do for your kitten is to make certain that it receives its kitten shots. These shots are known as the "3 in 1" vaccinations and are given to a kitten at approximately 4, 8,and 12 weeks along with a rabies shot. The purpose is to protect your kitten from some very serious viruses that can be deadly. My cats get yearly booster shots along with their rabies shot. It is my understanding that some vets suggest the booster shots every two years with some states allowing cats to get a 3-year rabies shot. Talk to your vet and follow their advice. The important thing here is that your cats has these shots.

Bacteria, viruses and bacteria-like organisms cause the majority of cat diseases. Your cat can pick up these things simply by inhaling an organism coming through the wind, coming in contact with an infected cat, eating infected food or water or a bite. Realizing this, keeping a cat inside sounds like the best advice I can give. However, my cats, because of the size of our property and the fact our guys stay within the confines of our fence, they are indoor/outdoor cats.

While I have given you an idea of what a healthy cat should be, never hesitate to call or see your vet, should you have the slightest worry regarding your cat's health.

If this article has been of benefit, please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

First Time Cat Or Kitten Owner - What to Include on Your Shopping List Before You Bring Them Home

By O'Della Wilson

So, you decided to increase your family with the addition of a kitten or cat? Maybe even two. Congratulations!

It can become a daunting, expensive process of preparation bringing home any new addition to your family. Forgetting one crucial item, can be a potential disaster! There are several things you will need to have on hand before you bring that fluffy ball of fur home.

Here's a check list I have put together that is sure to be invaluable on that first shopping trip:

Food:

I would suggest a small bag or box of two flavors/brands. Like people, animals need some choices for their palette. Personally, I mix 1/2 can of moist food with the dry food. One cup per cat, twice daily. Leftovers should be discarded daily.

Dishes:

I suggest separate food and water dishes, as opposed to the combo dish. This will keep the water from splashing into the food and will also make it less likely for bladder and urinary tract infections. Metal dishes are preferable to plastic, as the plastic holds odor, oils and again is more likely to be a breeding ground for bacteria. The metal dishes will keep the water cooler too. Dishes, especially water, should be washed daily. Unscented dish soap works great.

Treats:

A small bag of catnip and some moist vitamin treats are sure to please.

Litter & Litter Pan:

Depending on your preferences, there are a variety of products that work efficiently in today's market. Some cats will do the choosing in this area. I suggest you buy a tub of the clumping litter and a bag of clay litter. Try the clumping litter first. This has less dust, is easier to maintain, and omits less odor. Litter pans should be scooped [preferably twice] daily and thoroughly cleaned each week.

*Tip - I keep my cats' litter pans inside an 'under the bed' storage tub, placing the lid underneath. This will greatly reduce the amount of litter (kicked, shook, and hurled) finding its way to your floor or carpeting. Please people, do not put the tub under your bed. Remember, that's the type of container to use - to house the litter pan. The pan should be kept at an easily accessible location, preferably out of immediate sight of humans and in a low traffic area. Cats like privacy with the privy too.

Litter Pan Deodorizer:

Make sure the product is safe for your pets. I have heard of people using carpet sprinkles to deodorize their cat's litter pans. This can be very hazardous to your kitten and adult cat. Read the product warning label carefully to ensure it is safe to use with pets. If you are not looking for any aroma remedy, I would recommend using plain baking soda, two or three tablespoons per pan, twice a week.

Box of (quart/gallon size) zipper bags: Use for discards of litter box.

Scratching Post:

I have always had cats - my entire life and never to this date have any of them used an actual scratch post. They prefer your furniture, drapes, and woodwork -- or the following homemade remedy consisting of a box of self-adhesive (10- 1 sq ft) carpet tiles, one brick & cardboard (or wood) box. This can be a very cost effective measure and give your kitten/cat their own personal space. This gives them a sleeping area in addition to a scratch area and 'play' box.

Instructions for brick, box, and carpet tiles:

Make sure the box you use is sturdy and 12 to 15 inches high, 12 inches deep, and 18 to 24 inches long. Attach carpet tiles to exposed outside wall area on either end and inside for flooring. Cover the top of the box with tiles as well. Whether you choose to 'tile' the back of the box will depend on where you plan to place the box. It will make no sense to tile the back if you plan on placing it against a wall.

Cut one carpet tile, to size of brick, for the bottom side. This will prevent damage to flooring for those times you must remove it from the box. Your brick should be porous.

TOYS:

I recommend two or three toys for your kitten/cat to play with initially. One fabric toy that can be tossed easily and a ball no smaller than a golf ball. Refrain from toys that squeak or have bells inside, as these have the potential to choke your kitten/cat. Other items cats love are paper bags, scrunchie hair ties, and string. Always use care with the selection of any toys for your kitten/cat. Ensure string is long enough, thick enough and durable with one end tied to a solid object, avoiding the potential for choking. Scrunchies should be of medium to large in size - never use small or child size.

ROLL DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE:

Cut six inch strips to place on corners of furniture, woodwork, and counter tops. This is the most effective way I have found, to keep kittens/cats off your counter tops and tables. It also will keep them from shredding your furniture with their claws. Cats hate anything that is sticky on their paws. Velcro works wonders too, for areas that require more training, as it holds up longer. Citrus scented [stick on] air fresheners work great too.

Collar and Leash:

Refrain from buying collars with dangling items attached, especially bells. Cats find them annoying and offensive. The more lightweight the collar, the more likely your cat will adjust to this contraption around their neck.

A leash is a necessary evil as well. The sooner your kitten is exposed to leash walking, the easier it will be to train them to use one. The cat owner only realizes in hindsight how invaluable this training can be in emergency situations.

And last, but not least, refrain from buying all those cute toys, clothes, and bedding for your new pet until you learn their individual personalities. Once your new cat or kitten has settled in you can introduce new items, one or two at a time. Too many new and unfamiliar scents will make for a difficult transition to your kitty's new home.

Copyright 2008 All Rights Retained And Reserved

This article written and provided by: O'Della Wilson AKA Alhavakia, published author and freelance writer. http://www.alhavakia.com http://odellawilson.wordpress.com